Submerged underwater, tangled by the opposing currents desperately trying to regain view of the surface. That was my first time surfing. I sat on top of the surfboard concentrating on my balance as it constantly shifted with the incoming waves. My feet thumped as the blood slowed down in my feet due to the cold water. The waves towered over me rising me up and down as they flowed forward. I peddled nearer to shore as the waves were crashing in close. I sat by waiting for the next set to come. The ocean was still but i knew something big was gonna come in soon. I started to feel the rising in the ocean as the set was approaching. I positioned myself sideways to get a good view of both angels. Thats when i noticed something was wrong.
I look back as the wave started to approach me. I realized i was floating right where the wave would come down. I started to panic as i desperately swam away from the wave. My board was glued to the same spot. I wasn't moving anywhere. The wave was approaching at a rate faster than i could react. I decided to start paddling towards it in hope of getting over it before it came down. The wave was meters away. Thats when i came to the conclusion that i was gonna get slammed by the wall of water. At times, desperate measures are the only hope. I had previously been instructed by the guides to never throw the board without a conscious view of your surroundings. I simply didn't care. My whole body rose upwards as the wave was about to crash down on me. I grabbed to board and through it into the blue. I simply braced for impact by curling into a ball covering my head. From one second to the next, calmness changed into a madness. My whole body submerged into a rapid fight of currents. My body was spun around like clothes in a washing machine. Then it was all gone. I rose to the surface and gasped for air. I looked around disoriented looking for my point of reference. The small hut still sat right in front of me. I took a deep breath calmly got back on the board.
I had loved every moment of what had just happened. I had discovered something i never thought i would enjoy. The ocean, the waves, the surfing.
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